Terracan Storage - (Now Terracan Re-Design)

So This was the 1st Attempt to build my Storage for my Terracan.
I made the frame out of 25mmx50mm PAR european softwood.
I then covered the frame with 12mm WBP Plywood. As you can see the top has 2x hatches cut out of them. A Simple lift the lid and put the item in.
Later on I discovered that this was quite a inconvenience, as anything that was on top had to be moved in order to get to anything inside. And there were alot of items on top.









I Have since removed the top and repaced it with a solid unit. The front ply has now 2x sections cut out where the draws hae been fitted. The Last thing i need to do it to apply a type of interior carpet to cover the complete unit.

My Camera is still broken at the moment, but once its operational again I will upload the latest photo's.

TJ

Decent bit of carpentry that, fancy fitting out a Range Rover Classic ambulance-soon-to-be-camper?

Tom Mc wrote:

Decent bit of carpentry that, fancy fitting out a Range Rover Classic ambulance-soon-to-be-camper?

Why Not.

I just recently sold my panel saw, Im saving up for a bigger more reliable one. Once ive got that i could do it, with out one its hard to get evry thing square and flush, well for me it is.

deffo O level wood work,,,,, ,

Darn, just noticed the screwed joints, and there was me thinking they were all mortise and tenon jobbies. Definitely not up to RR standard.

Nah, it's all well and good me talking about fitting cupboards and the like - with or without dovetails - but I have to get the beast rolling first. The will is there, shame the finances aren't; hopefully this summer.

Tom Mc wrote:

Darn, just noticed the screwed joints, and there was me thinking they were all mortise and tenon jobbies. Definitely not up to RR standard.

Nah, it's all well and good me talking about fitting cupboards and the like - with or without dovetails - but I have to get the beast rolling first. The will is there, shame the finances aren't; hopefully this summer.

I can do mortise and tennon joints and a host of many others but it is quite un efficient on time. M&T joints are very stront and can make everything flush and snug. But the same can be achieved by square butting the joints. Going more in depth on the frame i used 70mm torque head screws and polyurethane glue. I also biscuit jointed the main sections to add some strength and to allow a easy flush joint.
I also think that M&T joints would be wasted as I am screwing that much 12mm WBP Plywood to the frame that you could drive over it. And the joints wouldn't be seen so for the purpose of a wooden storage rack it is 5x stronger than i need.

If you do buy some timber whether its saw or Planed all round (PAR), Planes square edge (PSE), plywood or MDF you need to specify when buying that its for interior joinery and that the moisture content is below 11%. This is to prevent warping or twisting.
When buying MDF in any size either for panels or doors its best to get MDF Moisture Resistant. Like the title says it will resist moisture and condensation when in hot, humid climates.
When buying Plywood in any size or quantity it is best to get either Weather boil proof (WBP) or Marine Ply. Depending on budget Marine ply will be the best. Very strong and excellent when coming in contact with muddy or wet items associated with general off roading.

Note that you can buy either MDF or Plywood "Faced". You can get anything from Oak faced to sapele faced. Very expensive but ideal if you are looking to create those exotic, rich looking cupboards and pannels. If you needed something strong say 12mm thick oak faced Marine grade plywood it is cheaper to buy 1x 6mm thick peice of normal plywood and 1x 6mm thick oak faced Marine Ply peice. Just glue them back to back over night with some waterproof d4 PVA.

If you are thinking of applying some kind of clear or coloured preservative. I would go with Oil Based. This will soak in to the wood better and repel with in reason any water that comes on contact with the item. You would see litle beads of water of rain on the item and not sitting waiting to be absorbed by the material.

I use normal galvanised screws on wooden items as its inside the vehicle, but if any parts are to be exposed u use either Stainless Steel or Copper. Both are prone to snapping when power driving them in so pre-drilled holes are a necessity.

Dont mean to tell people how to do it, you can do what you want. But for me, If I do something or what something done it must be done right.

Feel free to comment if you don't agree. I Could Learn something!

i think you got it all right, I would do the same.

Unlike metal, which is pleasing when you’ve actually finished the job, there is something very therapeutic working with wood. Probably because it's a natural product. Wish I had actually listened and learnt during 'woodwork' class at school instead of slipping away to explore the labyrinth of tunnels that ran underneath the establishment – the woodwork classroom was sited in the basement by the way. You could slip away for 15-20 minutes at a time, pop back later and the teacher didn’t even know you were missing! Great fun, but it did make the chair I made somewhat wobbly!!!

tom you have always been wobbly,,,,,,,,

I was a bench joiner and wood machineist for the last 6 years. But when I suffered serious health difficultys my doctor and friend said " Terracan Jas, if you continue in this industry you will die young".
Asthema, chest infections and bronci dont go well with any construction/asembaly enviroments it seems, despite the modern advances in Dust extraction and PPE. Still its no problem DIY at the weekends tho, just 40+ hrs per week = .

I prefer aluminium and TIG welding, easily cleaned and does not smell like wood which has things spilled on it, but each to their own i say.

Assassin wrote:

I prefer aluminium and TIG welding, easily cleaned and does not smell like wood which has things spilled on it, but each to their own i say.

If I had the ability to do this then I would. Learning to Weld is something I am looking in to doing in the next fue weeks, so who knows.......

Begin with MIG, cheap to purchase equipment and easiest to weld with, particularly on thinner car body type steels.

Despite what manufacturers and people claim you cannot weld aluminium with MIG unless you have an industrial machine with a powered wire feed in the head.

My TIG is much more complicated than any MIG, basic sets have only power settings and wire speed controls, my TIG for example has 24 knobs to set it and some of them are AC or DC, 2 or 4 step soft start, pulse frequence, square wave, and many more. It takes considerable skill and experience to use them correctly, and then the experience to weld ally as the machine settings have to be spot on.

I've been busy thinking and shopping and planning.

Firstly I have bought some Bash plates and skid plates from Australia for the Terracan. 1x Front bash, 1x Transfer Case, 1x fuel tank guard. They should arrive November time and I will post pics when I have bolted them on. so now im skint....


Now I am going to be removing the rear seats of the vehicle, taking out my current storage in the rear as pictured in my previous post and constructing something alot like what "Delcia" has in his Mitsi Delcia.
I have chosen to use wood again. Mainly because then I can build it, and I can get it cheap.
My suspension has the H/D Springs front TJM which are designed to hold up-to 100kg more than the standard ones. And ive worked out that the frame of the storage and 1x complete sheet of 9mm plywood would weigh in at 45kg. So that leaves me with abit to play with. I hope...

I will post pics when I can while I build, could take a month or two depending on funds....

Here is where I need advice, ideas and opinions on at the moment.

• Do I make slide out draws, or buy some tubs that I can pull out to keep all my tools, kit and camping equipment? The plastic tubs will be cheaper and lighter but may not look as good or be secure enough when out and about.

• What type of fridge do I need to have? To keep, milk, bevo's, food etc.

• How do I wire up the fridge? Manual control or automated when It gets too warm?

• What effect does a fridge have on the battery, do I need a bigger battery than a Odyssey PC1230 and when do I keep the fridge on and turn it off, only when the engine is running?

• I plan to have a single bed inside the vehicle, if I can find a air inflated bed can I permanently fix my T-Max air compressor to the inside of the cabin, wire it up for local activation and use it to pump up the bed and tyres?

• Water, water storage and vehicle water pumps. At the moment I would like to place a water storage box in one of the compartments and be able to use an electronic pump if I want to was hair etc. If I want to use it for drinkable water do I need to use a pump or storage unit with filters?

• How to set up, wire up, plumb for the above water storage/use?

Any pictures you have on what you have done and what you have learnt are welcome including opinions and ideas. I hope to turn the Terracan in to an off road capable camper basically Able to sleep inside and still comfortably travel carrying all my equipment and fishing gear . Slowly but surely with funds providing I will get there.

Thanks in advance.

Jason