Kapp 2 Cape: Nordkapp to Cape Agulhas starting Oct 2012

marjal wrote:

Hiya GirlChild,
I think we we're running just in front of you on our route back to Spain from Daventry.

We in Spain are you heading too? Any chance we'll cross paths?

marjal wrote:

We planned on a week or so in the French / Italian Alps around Mont Blanc and we also
cut it short and made a be line for the sun since we were in constant low cloud for days
so Valence south of Lyon and a quicky down to Narbonne for the night which we know is open
till mid November.

Yes - the weather was foul. We have only just managed to keep ahead of the snow. Now we have found a lovely little campsite outside Perpignan which has free wifi. Going to recharge a bit in the sun (now that the gales have subsided too!)

marjal wrote:

Re internet in France, Mcdonalds in France all have free internet, whilst we dont eat the rubbish
there's often a Lidl next door and the car parking at Lidl has the free internet, failing that a bag
of chips gets you the free internet connection.

Thanks! We have realised that now, although haven't cunningly seen the adjacent Lidl.

marjal wrote:

Spain, once south of Mercia your in Andalucia and our experience is that all or most Biblioteca's /
Library's offer a free internet connection to visitors, Mojacar Biblioteca during the day has a good
enough signal to pick it up on the beach right in front of the building.

Thanks for the tip! Will remember it.

Hope to see you soon!
rgds
African GirlChild

Tom Mc wrote:

"way too wet to use the Maggiolina"

You see, that's what I don't understand about folk and their roof tents. What's the benefit of sleeping up in the clouds being buffited by wind and rain? Not having a go at you personally marjal, just don't understand the benefits of them? Even in the back of beyond, when folk say ... "It's safer sleeping up top away from animals", correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought lions, bears, etc. could climb?

As for an attack by humans, you're well and truly snookered for up top there's quite literally nowhere to go.

Give me a vehicle I can sleep inside of anyday. Worst comes to the worst, animal or human, you can simply jump into the driver's seat and you're away!

Tom - we'll give you our opinion once done with the trip. In Europe, it is definitely overkill. That said, we camped on the groud last night (too windy to put up rooftop tent) and it was colder being on the ground. However, in Africa that shouldn't be the case. Ground won't be so cold then.

We'll see in Africa. I have mixed feelings about it, pros and cons versus ground tent.

Report back in a few months ...

rgds
African GirlChild

Your trip so you do your own thing, but here’s another idea or two you may want to consider as the region I’m about to describe is a truly spectacular but little-known part of Europe … a hidden gem!

Lurking in the southwestern corner of Spain is the Sierra Nevada mountain range; it’s an amazing place!

Head for the Tabernas Desert in Andalucia where there are plenty of off-road tracks and places for wild camping. Whether it’s actually legal or not I really don’t know, but ‘out of sight, out of mind’ is a policy that has always worked for me!

This is a good link - www.andalucia.com/environment/protect/tabernas.htm

It was here the famous Spaghetti Western movies and TV series of the 1950s -1980s were filmed as it looks like Arizona, classics such as "A Fistful of Dollars" and "For a Few Dollars More" starring Clint Eastwood. Three film sets entitled Mini Hollywood, Decorados and Rancho Leone still survive, so obviously a visit to at least one of these is a must - www.unique-almeria.com/mini-hollywood.html

Whether you would want to go to the Theme Park is another matter, but then again it could be fun - www.unique-almeria.com/oasys-theme-park.html

This Rough Guides site sums it up even better - www.roughguides.com/travel/europe/spain/andalucia/mini-hollywood.aspx

From here, you could head west to ‘Parque Natural Montes de Málaga’, just north of Málaga itself, which in turn is a stepping stone on to a famous village in Andalucía called Rhonda -www.andalucia.com/ronda/home.htm

A quick peek at a Michelin map will show you there are a host of adjoining national parks just north of the tourist coastline, all of which have legal off-road tracks marked. I’ve driven these myself from Málaga south west all the way to Gibraltar – they are wonderful.

There, some more ideas for you. As I say it’s your trip, but armed with more information, it can’t be a bad thing.

Here’s a few piccies from that very route – Málaga to Gib.













Sorry to hijack your thread, got carried away, but like you two I need the sun on my back, so was reliving a great trip.

Hijacking of thread permitted!!

Tell you what, if you do decide to drive down to Gib via Málaga, I just thought of another place you could go if you fancied a romantic moonlight walk. There’s a lovely little path on your route through a spectacular gorge, it’s has to done!

It’s called El Caminito del Rey, located at the gorge in El Chorro near Málaga. Built in the early 1900’s to gain access to a sluice gate and pumping station.

When I was there I thought I’d take a stroll along the path and film it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkgiC-N7CSo&feature=related

Nah, not really! With my vertigo, you would catch me anywhere near the thing. Definitely not that brave.

It appears the local authorities closed the path after two fatalities in 1999 and 2000. You can drive up to one end as we did, but that’s your lot as you can clearly see where the walkway has either collapsed or been dismantled to prevent any more nutters tackling the walk. It’s certainly different!

GirlChild wrote:

I have mixed feelings about it, pros and cons versus ground tent.

Report back in a few months ...

OK, no need to wait a few months to report back on t he rooftent v ground tent issue.

Last night it poured! Yip, cats and dogs running around everywhere. We were still in the ground tent as a few nights before it was too windy for the rooftop tent.

Let's just say, we have an amazing ground tent ... we only had 2 tiny leaks which came up under the mattresses ... depsite the water outside being 1 - 2 inches deep.

It took us 2 hours to pack up in pouring rain, and it was only the 2 man tent and our bags - we had to drag everything piece by piece into the shower block which had lots of space on the floor, wipe dry as best we could, and pack up.

Tonight, everything came out again in the new campsite to dry out ... well, sort of.

Viking Explorer also reminded me of our camping in Zambia, where he was digging moats around our little 2 man tent to prevent the rain water from washing us away.

So, verdict from me - rooftop tent get the thumbs up!!!

anyway, heading south tomorrow ... following the little bit of sun we have ...

rgds
African GirlChild

Great minds think alike, no pots and pans hanging around your ears, getting intamate with the gear stick, and if it floods everyone else has long since floated away.
Only issue we have with the Maggiolina, 1 it nicks the whole roof rack almost, and 2 HORIZONTAL rain makes it awkward
whilst getting inside but once in perfik. sorry Tom, tent wins Ha Ha.

Hi all,

As you probably all do, we are counting our pennies every day. Long may they last!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

So, there is much discussion always about budget. There is also very little information about what other travellers have used once on the road. And to be honest, it also will differ vastly from one traveller to another, dependant on preferences, activities etc. (All costs below are per day for both of us.)

So far, we have been on the road – give or take – for 3 weeks. We have also, hopefully, passed through the most expensive countries on the trip. Hopefully.

Our biggest expense, as to be expected, is fuel. The fuel prices have steadily been decreasing – with the UK being the most expensive so far, followed very closely by Sweden and Norway. Enough said, Mr Chancellor.

Germany ranged from 1.52 EUR to 1.42 EUR (£1.23 to £1.15)
France and Spain have each ranged from 1.45 EUR to 1.35 (£1.16 to £1.08)
We saw 1.22 EUR in Andorra (£0.98)

So, due to the large distances travelled to escape the weather (we have travelled 2.500 miles already), we are averaging £30 in fuel per day. This is the largest portion of our daily budget at the moment, and we look forward to this decreasing as fuel prices continue their decline, and we charge across the countries less.

Other travel related expenses – ferries primarily – have also driven our budget up. So far, aside from the ferry from UK to Denmark, we also had a ferry from Denmark to Sweden (alternate was toll bridge) and then Norway to Germany (alternate was 800km drive). While we do have another ferry to come, this impact should decrease. We have been avoiding toll roads through France and Spain: the alternate roads are in just as good condition, if somewhat more winding, and do allow more scenic views and chances to stop. It has been well worth it.

We have been doing very well on food – also noticing the decline in prices as we head south. Although we did start with some food in the larder, we have been topping up in each country as we go along. We are currently coming out at £10 per day.

Camping has been remarkably reasonable. This has ranged between 12 EUR per night to the most expensive being 18.50 EUR (£10 - £15 per night). And I have to add that these campsites put UK campsites to shame. The facilities have been fantastic – no roughing it here! Showers, washing up, toilets and some with internet thrown in. There are even electric plugs for a few luxuries – such as hairdryer and curling tongs!! We did splash out one night in a youth hostel (Avignon, France), but also had a few nights with family in Oslo, so this evens out.

So, at the moment we are a bit higher than our £50 per day budget we have set ourselves for the trip. However, we are reasonably sure that this will decline as we head south.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We'll keep you posted on the use of our pennies as we go along - and if the average decreases as planned.

Until next time,

Viking Explorer

Swings and roundabouts. The weather may not have been too great so far, but travelling at this time of the year means that items like campsite fees (when they are open) are considerably less then the summer. The Continentals certainly know how to charge in high season, you would virtually have to double your budget to £100 per day travelling in the height of summer - everything is expensive!

Looking forward to photos of the sun, even that will keep us lot back here going during these days of dark nights afternoons!!! Not good.

Im with you there with the roof tent! Decided on a roof tent after a trip to Norway with a ground tent. Got fed up with a river running through the ground tent and the slugs trying to get into our sleeping bags!!!!
With two kids and a dog, and all the associated equipment I would need a vehicle the size of a double decker bus to be able to sleep inside!

6th November 2012

La Linea, Spain

So, here we are. We have finally made it to the south of Spain.

We decided on our trip through Spain that we would avoid the toll roads, and enjoy the more scenic routes the country has. We also opted to explore the interior of this vast country, rather than follow the Mediterranean coast all the way down.

How rewarding.

Armed with our trusty ACSI camping guide, we were reasonably confident we could find open campsites along the way. This gave us the opportunity to really soak up the scenery and get lost in the little towns along the way!

The scenery changed constantly. We experienced green pine forests, Grand Canyon style dry landscapes, flat farmlands extending horizon to horizon. Bright red soils were replaced by cultivated olive plantations. Some parts reminded Viking Explorer of Norway, other parts reminded African GirlChild of South Africa. The contrasts were fabulous.

Our first glimpse of the Mediterranean came when reached the coast at the sprawling city of Malaga. What a shock to the system! The sea looked calm and the sun was trying its best to peak through the clouds, but the Costa del Sol was a continuous stretch of tourism and commercialism. Such a contrast to the relatively uninhabited interior of the previous 5 days.

We made a slight detour to visit Tarifa – which surely must be the on the southern most point of mainland Spain. It was a hazy day, but I was pleasantly surprised that we could see the coast of Morocco across the water. I never realised just how close it really is. With a strong wind blowing, we were treated to displays of agility by the kite-surfers (about 40-50) who were playing gracefully between the waves and the sky.

Then, off to La Linea de Concepcion – the Spanish border town with Gibralter. Here, we are being well looked after by Tuggy & Mrs Tuggy as we complete our final preparations for the big step onto the African continent.

How are we feeling?

Viking Explorer is displaying his true Viking heritage! He is eager and excited. Ready to tackle Africa.

African GirlChild is feeling a real mixture of anxiety and excitement – hopefully displaying at least some of the South African Voortrekker spirit, but feeling quite daunted by the enormity of the task at hand. Have you seen how big Africa is ?!?!!!

once across the water, it will all come together, (how do you eat an Elephant) just like your trip one piece at a time, or one day at a time, so enjoy every day, hopefully it does not pass to quickly.

Totally agree about Spain. The land is so diverse, you could spend months on end touring the country and going nowhere else. Love the people, love the land, love the food 'n' drink. Could never live there, but to visit ...

As for Kapp2Cape, here's where it really gets interesting for us lot left behind. When I started this forum I was really looking forward to the day when some overlanders would report back whilst on their travels. Must say S&O, unwittingly so far you've fulfilled all my hopes ... BIG TIME!

We've followed your preparation right from the first sewing machine moments, via the many boot sales and eventual house clearance as you sold 80% of your possessions, your excellent talks at the ADVENTURE OVERLAND show (no, I wasn't there, but I heard all about them), your saggy bottom that Tuggy spied at the show as soon as he saw it (the Toyota of course – African GirlChild’s rear is far too pert … Viking’s isn’t too bad either … ooooooooo!!!!!) and of course the soaking I managed to give you as the bubbly flowed at your official start, right the way though to now as you're about to swap continents.

I tell you, it’s terrific, and I know a lot of folk who don’t even post on here are following every move you make.

KEEP IT COMING! We’re all jealous as Hell of course, but equally you know we’re with you ‘virtually’ every step of the way. I say “virtually” because nowadays it is a ‘virtual’ world after all. Imagine all this being possible 20 years ago before the internet? It’s crazy!

Remember this Sheelah & Ov (sorry - mental block - can’t pronounce your name Viking Explorer - to me you’re simply ‘Ov’ and that’d probably how it will always be) your travels aren’t simply a first for you, it’s a first for a lot of us on here. Yes I’ve been to Morocco and a few black-African countries such as Senegal, Guinea, Mali and Mauritania where you could well be heading, but I’ve never followed the travels of a couple that potentially have TWO years on the road ahead of them ... that's exceptional!

To be honest, I feel privileged to be ‘alongside’ you on your travels, let’s see where we (we as in all of us) go from here?

Tom Mc wrote:

Tell you what, if you do decide to drive down to Gib via Málaga, I just thought of another place you could go if you fancied a romantic moonlight walk. There’s a lovely little path on your route through a spectacular gorge, it’s has to done!

It’s called El Caminito del Rey, located at the gorge in El Chorro near Málaga. Built in the early 1900’s to gain access to a sluice gate and pumping station.

When I was there I thought I’d take a stroll along the path and film it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkgiC-N7CSo&feature=related

Nah, not really! With my vertigo, you would catch me anywhere near the thing. Definitely not that brave.

It appears the local authorities closed the path after two fatalities in 1999 and 2000. You can drive up to one end as we did, but that’s your lot as you can clearly see where the walkway has either collapsed or been dismantled to prevent any more nutters tackling the walk. It’s certainly different!

yes el chorro...half of it fell of the rock last summer...only nutters do that tom...

The weather down here this week has been 3-4 days of heavy rain so we have 2 stray travlers stopping with us they are doing admin getting things repaired and getting the truck a once over to make sure everything is good for there crossing to africa. so its nice we can help people on there way.

Tom Mc wrote:

KEEP IT COMING! We’re all jealous as Hell of course, but equally you know we’re with you ‘virtually’ every step of the way. I say “virtually” because nowadays it is a ‘virtual’ world after all. Imagine all this being possible 20 years ago before the internet? It’s crazy!

To be honest, I feel privileged to be ‘alongside’ you on your travels, let’s see where we (we as in all of us) go from here?

Tom - it is so awesome to have everyone along! (aaahh ... that is where the saggy rear came from???) I don't think this was even possible 5 years ago!

We hope you all enjoying seeing Africa through our eyes ... this is all firsts for us too!

So, grab your passports, remember to put up a map of Africa on your wall ... and let's head to Africa!

African GirlChild

tuggy wrote:

The weather down here this week has been 3-4 days of heavy rain so we have 2 stray travlers stopping with us they are doing admin getting things repaired and getting the truck a once over to make sure everything is good for there crossing to africa. so its nice we can help people on there way.

Huge thanks to Tuggy and Mrs!

It has been wonderful to be given so much info, see so many photos, play so much Scrabble, and be inspired to continue on our journey.

We hope in the future we can return the favour ...

La Linea, Spain

Remember that feeling?

As a kid, everything was so exciting and new. You had to run everywhere to see it first. See it now. And you’d be running as fast as you could, and there would be this fence in front of you, with all this unknown possibility on the other side. Not a very high fence, mind you, just enough to reach up to your chest. You’d hurtle towards it, bang up against it, and your shoulders and head would lean over, while you stood on tippy toes. Whooaa! This sudden stop, while you come face to face with all the newness on the other side.

Remember that feeling?

Exciting. Scary. Disorientating.

That is what the run through Europe has felt like: mad rushing until we reached the edge of the continent and suddenly stopped. Whhhooaaa! The newness of North Africa a mere handful of miles across the water. Just there.

Now, we are boldly taking the next step.

We have had the good fortune of meeting Noel and Ping, who are doing on the same journey as us. We’re similarly excited, similarly nervous, so we thought we’d hold each other’s hands (so to speak) and take the next step together.

This week has seen each of us complete our preparations, and tomorrow is the big day. The plan is to meet at the ferry terminal early in the morning, to head over to the African continent together.

As for me? I am treating this as a 2 month holiday in Morocco. Not thinking further than that.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
rgds,
African GirlChild

*Jed pulls up a seat*

About to "boldly go". Hmmmmm, now where have I heard that line before?

Chefchaoune, Morocco (free wifi in campsite!!)

Just so that there is no confusion – Africa officially starts at Algeciras ferry port, which sadly thinks it is still on the Spanish mainland.

Our ferry was at 0900, so we made every effort to be there before 0800 (even with returning to retrieve African GirlChild’s forgotten jacket). 0755 we pulled in, and joined the vehicle queue in – let’s call it – waiting area 1. Plenty of time. Noel and Ping arrived about 0810 and were about 6 or 7 cars behind us.

It didn’t take very long for the ticket booth to open, and we could proceed from waiting area 1, have our tickets changed from open to booked onto the ferry, and proceed to the next queue – waiting area 2 for ease of use.

0900 came and went.

By this time, Noel and Ping had been informed that they weren’t going on the 9am ferry after all (too many tall vehicles) and were in their own waiting area. They were due to leave on the 1200 ferry. So, we stood around, Ping cooked some breakfast, and we chatted.

As it transpired, the incoming ferry was struggling its way across the Straits in stormy weather. It was estimated to arrive at 1000 and we would be departing at 1030. I was quite impressed that they could offload and reload the ferry in 30 minutes – maybe this part of Africa is slicker!

1100 the excitement resumed – we moved from waiting area 2 into a long queue on the quayside as we waited for the arriving ferry to unload. Then, suddenly, it was our turn to board. Of course, all vehicles needed to turn around and reverse in, so make disembarking easier once we had crossed. The first vehicles on were the 18 wheelers, followed by larger trucks, overloaded people carriers, campers, 4x4s down to sedans. We parked our truck and headed upstairs to the deck to watch the final loading and departure from Algeciras.

1200 came and went … still the ramp hadn’t been raised. Eventually, 5 men emerged wiped greasy hands and we were off … 1215 departure for the 0900 ferry.

Next up – the 35 minute crossing through stormy straits. It was still quite calm as we left the port and made our way past the little rock that is Gibralter, but gradually the waves grew. While Viking Explorer stood outside the whole time, African GirlChild found a quiet chair indoors … and attempted to doze. We finally docked in Ceuta, the Spanish enclave on the tip of Africa at 1345 … the longest 35 minute crossing in history!

Great excitement – we all headed down the vehicles, hopped in … and waited. We grabbed a book, read a bit, had a nap, read some more … nada. As it transpired, they couldn’t lower the ramp. It only took them until 1500 to figure it out! Those men with greasy hands in Algeciras all made sense now… Right, no problem. Just turn the ferry around and we’ll exit the other way. The way we all aren’t pointing, because we had to reverse onto the ferry.

But never fear. This should be a piece of cake. Afterall, the unloading only starts with those large 18 wheelers, reversing at a funny angle down a ramp … Inch by inch, change of drivers, inch by inch … and it was off! One by one, the remaining vehicles either reversed off or turned around. Finally it was our turn … 1520

You just gotta love Africa!

So now in Africa, and the stat of the journey.

ENJOY THE TRIP

Great start! Let's hope things go a little smoother in the following days. They have to ... don't they?

Don't forget, never leave anything an attended or unlocked - not for a moment. Not saying you're likely to get robbed - YES I AM!!! It can happen anywhere in the world, we all know that, just be cafeful and you'll be okay.

Me I'm off to devour a couple of big, deep, yummy Kate & Sydney Pukka pies with tons of buttery mash an' French beans; mmmmm!!!! Thought thought you'd like to know.

well thats amazing it was still very rough out to sea and i was expecting the call" prep the bed".... , i wasnt sure the ferry would sail at all.

wet start leaving for the ferry.

Wet start ... what ... more bubbly!